My Moroccan adventure ignited with a thrilling ride in a Grands taxi from Tangier Med to Chefchaouen, the Blue City. Negotiating an unbeatable price, our journey kicked off after stepping off the ferry from Algeciras, after crossing the Strait of Gibraltar. My husband and I live in Spain, not far from Tangier Med, so the majority of our travel would be overland through Morocco in uncharted territory.
Little did I know, the next ten days would be far from a leisurely vacation; Morocco isn't just a destination, it's an unforgettable experience, and not one for the faint of heart.
From start to finish, every moment was a whirlwind of haggling and hustling. In Morocco, even a simple question comes at a cost, part of the intricate dance of local customs. Unprepared travelers may feel overwhelmed, intimidated, and lost amidst the chaos, especially when they come across locals that aren't fans of Western tourists.
Rhythm in the Chaos of Morocco
Yet, amidst the hustle, there's beauty to be found. Exploring the winding streets of Chefchaouen's medina was first on our itinerary, as it's in the North of the country, and was high on my bucket list. Indulging in the luxurious ambiance of a dark blue and silver spa was one of the highlights of my trip, even though the attendant tried to put sugar in my fresh-squeezed orange juice and the spa tub had a leak.
My masseuse bore a gentle demeanor and soft hands, leaving a lasting impression. Despite our language barrier—her limited English and my rudimentary grasp of French—I sensed a shared understanding. Like many women I'd met on my journey, she seemed burdened by societal constraints, held back from reaching her full potential.
Moving from one small town to another, I observed the pervasive tradition of women covering their heads and shoulders, a practice I, too, adhered to. Not until we reached the bustling streets of Marrakech did I feel a subtle shift—a loosening of strict customs and traditions. It was a breath of fresh air, a hope that even in a land steeped in tradition, change and progress were visible in part.
The food and scenery of Morocco left me awestruck, yet the relentless hustle was at times overwhelming. I'll never forget the audacity of a vendor who insisted on selling me fresh camel milk at an exorbitant price of $30 a liter! Despite his indignation at my refusal, encounters like these were emblematic of the spirited commerce woven into Moroccan daily life.
As we don't speak the local language, or know how to read Arabic, it made our travel by bus a mad frenzy, but there is always someone not far off ready to help.
Escaping the Hectic Medina of Fes
Fes was our next major stop, and I was so looking forward to wandering its grand and complex medina. Official guides have to take a two-year course to master the medina. Estimates suggest that there are around 9,000 narrow streets and alleyways within it, making it one of the largest and most densely populated urban areas in the world. These streets wind their way through the historic heart of Fes, passing by bustling markets, traditional riads, and ancient landmarks, offering visitors a glimpse into the city's rich cultural heritage.
The moment we arrived in Fes and stepped off the bus, we were immediately surrounded by guides and hotel attendants eager for our buck. Among them was a well-presented man with thin lips and a heart-shaped smile who showed us a photo of a charming riad. Intrigued, we decided to follow him.
After passing through the iconic Blue Gate, we wound our way through the dark labyrinthine streets of the medina, only to discover that the charming riad he initially showed us wasn't the one he took us to. The one we arrived at had far less appeal. Frustrated by the man's dishonesty, I wanted to leave and find another option. However, John, my camel who was carrying my bag, looked at me with pleading eyes. Reluctantly, I decided to stay.
Sahara Bound: Experiencing its Serenity
Despite the rocky start, we booked a tour of Morocco with the same man. When I mentioned my desire to visit the desert, I meant the closest desert, not the Sahara. Unbeknownst to us, we were headed to the Sahara the next day. Our journey took us seven hours through Morocco, with a driver who spoke no English but understood "Stop! Photo!"
I employed these words frequently. The scenery along the way was breathtaking, especially the palm groves like Zarza Gorge, with its winding river lined with palm trees. Then there were the goats up in the trees eating argan seeds and a tribe of Barbary apes playing nearby.
Venturing into rural towns, I witnessed timeless scenes of women washing clothes in the cold mountain streams flowing from the Atlas Mountains. Despite their simplicity, these communities seemed untouched by the complexities of the modern world—a fact that I found both humbling and intriguing. If World War III suddenly broke out, they wouldn't even know it. Their daily lives would be unfazed. I took comfort in that and marveled at the prospect.
Finally, we ended up in the Sahara, which meant our original itinerary was scratched, so a good majority of sites on it had to be crossed off.
Amidst the chaos of our travels, and the vendors who hustle with urgency, I encountered extraordinary individuals like a young man in the Sahara who effortlessly conversed in seven languages, a testament to the Berber people's remarkable linguistic prowess.
A Thrilling Camel Ride in the Sahara
We passed a good portion of time trekking around the kasbah over high dunes and around an oasis that shaped out of a flood after intense rainfall. Staying in the Sahara, it felt like no time has passed for millennia. The highlight of my time in the Sahara was a breathtaking sunset camel ride. As the sky turned vibrant shades of orange and pink, the beauty of the desert was truly mesmerizing. However, the adventure took an unexpected turn on our return trip under the starlit sky.
My camel suddenly decided to run off with me, heading towards the Algerian border. Despite the frantic calls from the camel herder and our guide, my camel paid no heed. The last thing I heard was my husband shouting, "Hold on tight!" as I clung to the camel, racing through the night.
Discovering the Majestic Todra Gorge
From the Sahara, we had a private driver who took us to Todra Gorge. Nestled in the eastern part of the High Atlas Mountains, Todra Gorge is one of Morocco's most spectacular natural wonders. This dramatic canyon, with its towering limestone cliffs that soar up to 400 meters high, offers a breathtaking backdrop for adventurers and nature enthusiasts alike.
The Todra River, which carved out the gorge over millennia, winds through the valley, creating a serene oasis of palm trees and lush vegetation amidst the rugged terrain. As you explore the gorge, you'll be captivated by the sheer scale of the cliffs and the vibrant colors that shift with the changing light.
Todra Gorge is a haven for rock climbers, hikers, and photographers, providing countless opportunities to capture its stunning beauty. Whether you're scaling the rocky walls, trekking along the river, or simply soaking in the awe-inspiring scenery, Todra Gorge promises an unforgettable experience in the heart of Morocco's High Atlas Mountains.
Exploring the Enchanting Ouarzazate
Ouarzazate, known as the "Gateway to the Sahara," is a captivating Moroccan city nestled between the High Atlas Mountains and the Sahara Desert. Its ochre-colored buildings and palm-lined streets exude ancient charm and intrigued me from the start, with the iconic Kasbah Taourirt standing as a historical landmark. We explored its narrow corridors and intricately carved ceilings, immersing ourselves in Morocco's rich heritage.
Ouarzazate is also a film industry hub, with Atlas Studios attracting global filmmakers. From aromatic local spices in bustling markets to traditional Berber crafts, Ouarzazate provided a sensory journey that has burned in my memory.
Saying Goodbye to Morocco
As our ten-day journey drew to a close, we were whisked in and out of Marrakech and Casablanca, but we didn't complain. We were worn out from the hustle. On the ferry heading back, we suddenly caught sight of over a hundred dolphins frolicking in the wake of our boat as we crossed the Strait of Gibraltar. What a fitting finale!
Though challenged by the adventure, I emerged from it feeling enriched and inspired. The vibrant colors, tantalizing scents, and vivid images etched in my mind compelled me to pen a memoir—a testament to the profound impact of my Moroccan odyssey.
Indeed, Morocco captured my heart, hustle and all, and I wholeheartedly recommend it to fellow adventure seekers. Two years later, I returned to roam around Marrakech and Imlil in the Atlas, this time navigating the country's scenic roads by car—a safe and rewarding way to explore its breathtaking landscapes beyond the bustling cities. Keep an eye out for the link to my memoir—I can't wait to share more tales from this enchanting land!
Morocco isn't just a destination; it's a sensory journey that leaves an indelible mark on the soul.
It's the small details that linger: savoring over-sweetened Moroccan Whiskey, aka Gunpowder Green Tea, and discovering hidden gems like a roadside diner near a gas station, shockingly serving up the most unforgettable meal I had in Morocco. I visited too many rug shops and met too many 'uncles' always willing to hustle me with promises of a good deal, but the combined experience and the feeling it invoked remains.
If you're planning to visit Morocco, I have plenty of articles offering tips and advice, as well as suggested hidden gems. If you need any trip organization, reach out. I offer trip planning and other services at SamSol Travel Solutions.
Wherever you head off to...Happy Trails! See...Saw!
Written by Jori Sams of SamSol Travel Solutions
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